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vtx cutting out after riding a bit

7.1K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  triggerhappynme  
#1 ·
didn't know what to name this post nor did I want to search thru the 1000 or so posts to see if anybody was having a similar problem. I have a 2005 ATX 1800c, Runs like top & a mule combined (Strong / smooth). After I ride for about 30 to 40 minutes she starts popping & farting like its running out of gas, I've noticed If I turn the kill switch off & back on it will take off and run fine for a little while, then it will do it again & again. the switch is a "new Honda switch" I recently installed because the old one starter button got hot. I did notice on the old switch, if I touched the run side of the kill switch It would shut down, but when released it would keep going. :serious:
Any help would be great.
Thanks, Steve (STB Auto 512 292 3519).
 
#8 ·
Pinched fuel vent = bike stops running not running on one cylinder. Easy to check, when the symptoms hit, stop and try to open the fuel cap. If you can't or it hisses like opening a can of soda, you have a pinched vent.

The ground, you can not just "Check" it or look at it and think it looks OK. You MUST perform the service on that front coil ground. It isn't listed at one of the top 2 reasons for your symptoms for nothing. So, I'll say again

Tighten your battery cables
Do the ground fix
 
#9 ·
Spike knows his stuff.
 
#10 ·
still have problem. Checked recommended. took it to brenham tx this week end (85 miles) screwed up about 7 times each way. Have noticed that as soon as I turn switch off then on again the problem is gone for a while and while cruising (about 65 to70) it only acts up when I accel. bike has a programmer (Dynojet power commander v) Is it possible its cutting out then when I turn it off & on its resetting?
 
#13 ·
OK, Since last on this thread I've removed the power commander changed the fuel cut off relay, installed a new kill switch, installed a new power commander V & had Johnny cheese dyno tune. runs incredible. smoothest its ever been at highway speeds. max torque 113.6, max, max hp 91.8 That's at the rear tire! But still have problem! It seems to loose fuel pressure. On steady throttle you don't really notice it, then when you attempt to go faster, it just falls flat. Release the throttle and maintain cruise speed does ok for a bit but then steadily gets worse( will actually shut down). Turn kill switch off & on, runs great for little bit(sometimes as long as 15-20 miles). If it was the a weak fuel pump, turning the switch off & on wouldn't or shouldn't change a thing. The ECU sends a ground signal to the relay in return energizes the fuel pump. That's why I changed the relay. all the power sources come from the IGN switch & kill switch. turning on & off the kill switch shouldn't change the IGN switch output.? Im at the end off the road & thinking its the ECU.????? any comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve (STB Auto)
 
#14 ·
Get the wiring schematic for your bike and bypass the bank angle sensor. I'm reading your report and the only thing that come to mind is the bank angle sensor as it resets only when you turn off the ignition and then back on. It's a reach I know but it's worth trying before you fork out a lot of dough for a new ECU.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Is there room for a double banjo to connect a fuel gauge?

Is the fp inlet clogging up with something?

Temporaily connect a led to the FP Brown wire to monitor voltage.

Connect a temporary wire direct from the fuel pump
to the battery +12v.

CAUTION>> Brown/Black TRIGGER wire from ECM has been confused with solid Brown fuel pump wire.

For trouble shooting--you should disconnect the PC5 from the ECM and other connections.

Engine Stop Relay feeds +12v from FI Main Fuse to every FI component on the Black/White wire. Ignition switch > Kill switch is the positive trigger(+12v), the Bank Angle sensor is the source of the negative trigger(Ground).

Sometime in 2005/06 a 20 amp fuse was added to the FI circuit in the right side cover designated as "FI, IGN, FP". Red/White wire in, Red/Green wire out. Check all electrical connections from 30 amp fuses >> 2 pin connector>> to Engine Stop Relay.

At anytime when it starts cutting out is your speedometer still working????
Some VSS put out a crappy signal when it is dying and it goes into limp mode or some impaired mode.
 
#16 ·
speedo works. I thought about running a light (small noid) from a 12volt acc & run the ground from the relay and watch to see if when it acts up I loose the ground.? problem is, its intermittent. I rode today about 120 miles 60 each way, I stopped to see grandma & my father In law , never acted up. My father in law says That's the reason they got rid of that bike(previous owner). I'm starting to believe him! I keep telling him I'll figure it out. Thanks for the input. I'll try every thing at least once
 
#18 ·
Most of the issues were on the older models.

Two or three cases of wire intermittently shorting out at the cable harness frame clip right where the injector wires leave the harness.

One case of the cam position sensor causing a problem.

Many cases of vampire clips scoring, then breaking wire strands.
How does your PC5 get +12v??? Verify Ground also...

The secondary ground cable by the starter to the lower frame bracket
near the bottom of the radiator, one rider cleaned his connections and said it cleared his problem. Ground fix post #7
 
#23 ·
I have a power commander for my bike, came with it when purchased. I was having intermittent engine cut out when cruising but not under throttle. I disconnected the commander and it went away. I have yet to figure out why the cut out happened but the bike runs smooth and perfect without it. I would try and disconnect your programmer and see if it still does it. Its an easy check and just might narrow your search down.